 Los
vinos de Alejandro Fernández en “Stephen
Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar”
En esta edición del reputado informe
(Nº 109; Julio – Agosto, 2003)
Stephen Tanzer enfoca su mirada en España
y “descubre” para su audiencia
“Los Mejores Nuevos Vinos Españoles”.
Entre ellos figura, como no podía
ser de otra manera, una sólida representación
de los vinos que Alejandro Fernández
elabora en sus diferentes bodegas. Esta
es la transcripción de sus comentarios
de cata:
2000 Tinto Pesquera Crianza (Ribera
del Duero)
Deep red-ruby. Superripe black cherry, cola,
espresso and dark chocolate on the nose.
Dense, silky and rich, with complex flavours
of black raspberry, cherry, currant, licorice
and flowers perked up by nicely integrated
acidity. Finishes with tongue dusting tannins
and a saline quality. 91
1999 Tinto Pesquera Reserva (Ribera
del Duero)
Deep red. Plum, mocha, meat and sweet oak
on the rather reticent nose. Chewy, dense
and deep, with almost saline flavours of
plum, dried cherry, grilled meat and dried
flowers. A big , ripely tannic, long wine
that nonetheless comes across as less vibrant
than the regular 2000 release. 89
1995 Janus Gran Reserva (Ribera
del Duero)
Saturated dark ruby. Imploded nose of roasted
red and black fruits, sun-dried tomato,
truffle, smoked meat and coffee. Huge, rich
and backward, with strong soil tones of
minerals, iron and tobacco (like a rare
steak). Began rather closed in on itself
but showed great ripeness and a texture
of liquid silk with extended time in the
recorked bottle. Lush, smoky and full, with
extremely smooth tannins and subtle finishing
flavours that go on and on. Yum. 94
2000 El Vínculo (La Mancha)
Bright, full red. Cassis, cranberry, black
cherry, meat, peat and earth on the nose,
along with smoky oak. Dense and suave, with
a highly concentrated , deep core of sappy
blackberry and currant fruit complicated
by coconutty oak. Pliant and captivating
wine with a lot of personality. Finishes
very long, with smooth tannins that reach
the front teeth. This is the La Mancha project
of Alejandro Fernández. 91
2001 Condado de Haza (Ribera del
Duero)
Saturated bright ruby. Superripe aromas
of raspberry, espresso, cherry skin and
black licorice. Chewy, deep and highly concentrated;
youthfully tight but with no rough edges.
The sappy flavours of black raspberry, mocha
and spices show lovely verve. Finishes very
long and aromatic, with building tannins.
92
2000 Dehesa La Granja (Zamora)
Saturated medium ruby. Aromas of black raspberry,
blackberry, cassis, mocha and espresso.
Dense, lush and sappy, with an impressive
core of sweet black raspberry, dark chocolate
and nutty oak flavours. Velvety, sweet and
large-scaled but still quite unevolved.
A somewhat unrefined but impressive wine
that finishes very long, with building tannins.
The strongest vintage yet from Alejandro
Fernández’s third Ribera del
Duero project (after Pesquera and Condado
de Haza), and a great value. 91
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